Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Masques

When I feel like contemplating, I read James Maskalyk’s blog on his mission in Sudan earlier this year, and my friend DC’s mass e-mails on her mission in Côte d’Ivoire at the halfway mark. It is an easy game, to compare experiences with other first missioners, to see if we all go through the same phases. James talks about a woman with retained placenta who dies of overwhelming sepsis and anaemia. He says: “No death is easy, if it starts to become that way, one should change professions.“ A colleague pronounced the exact same sentence earlier this year at home when I reacted with great passion to a young woman’s death. But somehow, tonight, such noble sayings make me express cynicism. Some deaths are easier than others. In the business of managing sickness, repetitive pattern recognition shows us that some deaths are sought for if not, even, deserved. We have a case of fulminant hepatitis. I was scratching my head about the reasons why – until he vomited a large amount of strong-smelling palm wine. The same happens back home, when the cirrhotic alcoholic comes in for the umpteenth time with bloody vomiting after a drinking binge. “What a waste of time and resources”, emergency room workers think but don’t say. “He looked for it.” Whether in the Canadian emergency department or in the Congolese bush hospital, doctors and nurses can’t help but express judgment at self-inflicted morbidities. The judgments offer an explanation to the unexplainable, and yes, some deaths sure feel easier than others. It is not a truth that we healthcare workers will admit publicly because it is so politically incorrect. But it would be preposterous to deny that we become more callous with time. Still, when death and sickness hit the innocent and the destitute – then, I certainly hope to always react with great passion.

This blunt political incorrectness is the product of a lot of fatigue... multiple apologies. The rainy season and its corollary of logistical nightmares have arrived in full force. For seven days last week, I was designated the acting project coordinator and logistician, because both were gone. And my bipolar karma went into a manic phase and spilled over to the non-medical responsibilities. The interim position, meant for a week-end, stretched to a week due to plane delays. And trucks got stuck in mud and decisions had to be taken with regards to immobilized precious fuel on the road, as well as significant plane delays. Challenges in communication with our capital team and a tense exchange with the local Ministry of Health were the cherries on top. The upcoming R&R this week-end will bring back my cheery self, I hope.

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Bébé Kalobwa, the one who was born at 900 g, being carried by her half-sister. Kalobwa is now 6 months old and... urmh... 3500 g, which still isn’t much. But at least she is holding her head that is now full of nice thick hair!






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Notre psychologue est partie, à ma grande tristesse. Pour son départ, on avait préparé en catimini l’invitation d’une troupe folklorique locale. La fête a été un franc succès. Les danseurs, vêtus de costumes de paille et de masques un peu effrayants, ont performé pendant une heure et demie. Leurs musiciens étaient aux tams-tams, en continu, sans arrêter. Le bidon d’alcool de palme et le chanvre parfumé partagés par les musiciens ont clairement contribué à l’atmosphère de transe et de magie noire qui flottait.



On a su par la suite que les Bifwebe, tels qu’ils s’appellent, sont aussi considérés sorciers et n’étaient pas venu à Shamwana depuis avant la guerre en 1999. La population les révère et les craint à la fois à cause de leurs soi-disant pouvoirs de magie noire. Ils sont les gardiens des vieilles traditions de brousse. Chaque danse performée racontait une histoire mythique: chasse, querelle de famille, apprentissage. Lors des danses, un des leurs ramassait sans faute chaque miette de paille tombée des costumes. A certains moments, les danseurs se fouettaient avec des branches de feuilles. A mes questions perplexes, notre watsan congolais a répondu que les brindilles tombés se faisaient transformer en gri-gris (amulettes traditionnelles de cuir, portées à la ceinture), ce qui, tout comme les flagellations, a pour but de préserver force et énergie vitale. Observer les faciès de nos employés congolais lors du spectacle relevait de l’expérience anthropologique. Selon leurs origines soit rurales soit urbaines, certains étaient effrayés ou du moins inconfortables, alors que d’autres se joignaient à la danse en rigolant et en prenant des photos. Quelle belle illustration du schisme entre le Congo païen tribal précolonial et le Congo éduqué chrétien (mais tout aussi tribal sous le vernis)... Devinez qui étaient les inconfortables? Pas les gens d’ici, habitués aux Bifwebe et à la magie noire! C’étaient les gens éduqués de Lubumbashi. Pour la peine, tout le village de Shamwana s’était regroupé à nos portes et notre palissade de paille a été complètement détruite par les attroupés qui voulaient voir le spectacle. Disons que le départ de notre psychologue s’est fait en grand et aura été inoubliable – il a laissé ses traces de destruction à la base!

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